
The Artsy Side Of Dubai
Dubai may be known for its luxury, but it also boasts a vibrant art scene. Here are my picks for the best galleries and hip cafes for exploring the artsy side of Dubai.
“What do you buy for someone as a souvenir from Dubai?” a friend asked over dinner at Dubai Marina Mall.
“Something expensive!” came the reply as our table burst into laughter.
We were munching on mezza at Abd El Wahab restaurant surrounded by high-end boutiques and a man-made lake. Looking out over the glittering skyscrapers of Pier 7, my friend’s punchline made perfect sense. The emirate city has long been known for its luxury shopping and glittering excess – and we were in the heart of it.
But the “City of Gold” is hoping to change its image as a hub of high-rises and mega malls.
In an effort to attract 20 million tourists per year by 2020, Dubai is eager to bring in a broader market and show it’s got more to offer than bling. It’s a move from being a city you “must visit” to a city “you must experience,” Issam Kazim, the CEO of Dubai’s tourism promotion body, told Arabian Business.
These days, Dubai is marketing itself as a cultural destination and highlighting its burgeoning art scene at Alserkal Avenue.
I set aside an afternoon during my visit to Dubai to visit this hipster haven and browse the artist studios, trendy cafes and theaters.
Flying into Dubai
My trip begins with espresso and sandwiches in Emirates’ plush executive lounge at Cairo International Airport, where you can charge your phone as you watch planes land and take off.
The five-hour Cairo-Dubai flight feels like your vacation has already started. The airplane seats include a full-body massage and the entertainment screen has an endless amount of movies and TV shows.
Once I arrive in Dubai, I take a taxi to Media City – an ultra-modern hub of immaculate skyscrapers with views of the marina. The taxi zips down a highway that (compared to Cairo) is blissfully free of traffic jams. I feel like I’m inside a movie set. Everything is glistening and stretching towards the sky, with none of the weather-beaten facades you’d expect from a hot city built on sand.
I check into Media One Hotel, which boasts wonderful breakfasts, comfy beds and panoramic views over the water. The infamous Palm Jumeirah is nearby, the tree-shaped island full of glitzy hotels, and the turquoise waters of the Persian Gulf glisten in the sunshine.
Alserkal Avenue – an artsy compound
The next day, I head for Alserkal Avenue – a compound full of warehouses in the industrial zone of Al Quoz that have been re-made into shops, galleries and cafes. Despite all the media coverage of this cultural phoenix, my taxi driver has trouble finding the place.
It is mercilessly hot and the streets are empty as we ride past gray concrete blocks and storehouses. Finally, we turn into a compound where I spot a few discreet shop and gallery signs.
The first gallery at Alserkal opened in 2008. Others gradually followed and an expansion in 2015 doubled its square footage to some 500,000. Alserkal Avenue is now a mix of industrial, business and creative spaces, housing some 60 cultural venues. During Ramadan it hosts month-long exhibits, events and workshops.
Vegan lunch in artsy Dubai
I begin my visit with lunch at the chic Wild & the Moon, a food and juice bar that launched as a superfood cantina in Paris before expanding to Dubai. I grab a seat on a bench of reclaimed wood and gulp in the cool, refreshing air. The decor is minimalist with high ceilings, exposed pipes and hanging potted plants.
I get a creamy latte and a magic budwig bowl that’s a mouthwatering mix of ground almonds, spirulina and banana. It’s indulgent, refreshing and vegan. I also love the acai bowl topped with banana slices and granola. A perfect light yet nourishing power lunch for a hot afternoon.
Street calligraphy on Alserkal Avenue
eL Seed’s studio is nestled in a warehouse nearby. eL Seed is a French-Tunisian artist whose work I’d first seen in Egypt. In a bid to challenge Egyptian prejudices about the city’s trash collectors’ district, el Seed painted a massive mural that covered nearly 50 buildings.
His other work is just as brilliant: bright, colorful murals that play with classical Arabic calligraphy in a decidedly modern way.
I browse the works-in-progress leaning against the studio walls. Then I ask eL Seed what he thinks of Dubai’s image as a shopping city.
“People who think that haven’t seen this side of Dubai,” he says.
I grab a few stickers with eL Seed’s calligraphy (his original art is way out of my budget) and head out into the sizzling heat.
Art and Theatre at Alserkal
I stop briefly at The Jam Jar, drawn in by the bright paintings at the entrance. This community arts space aims to boost art appreciation in the UAE, and regularly hosts workshops, youth programs and events. I browse the studio filled with easels, paint jars and colorful canvases.
Then I peek inside The Junction, a 158-seat theater that puts on plays like A Streetcar Named Desire and One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest. An old-fashioned popcorn machine stands at the entrance and the walls are decorated with bright theater posters.
I finish my tour and walk towards the main street, gulping down water as I look for a taxi. It’s quiet and takes awhile before one appears.
And although Alserkal is creating a buzz with the city’s art lovers, it feels like a hidden gem tucked between rows of warehouses. In a city full of dizzying luxury and record-breaking shopping malls, it’s also proof there’s more to Dubai than the stereotypes.
For more about exploring a city’s hidden gems, read 29 Practical Tips for Slow Travel.
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41 Comments
manwalksintoanairport
Nice to see another side of Dubai. I went once and decided never again. If I find myself transiting through there, maybe I’ll add a day or two. Thank you for a well written piece
Dee
I’m glad you liked it! It’s definitely worth exploring if you ever get a layover there.
Sheree
Noted for my next trip to Dubai.
Dee
I hope you enjoy the place, Sheree!
maristravels
I’m so pleased to read about another side of Dubai and one I didn’t know about. But then Dubai is getting so enormous, spreading like lava over the sands and the sea that one wonders where it will stop. I shall make a point of stopping off here on my next visit.
Dee
I hope you enjoy your next visit! The city is growing incredibly fast; it’s almost surreal.
graffitiguru
Wow, definitely not what I would have expected…Dubai’s been on my list for a few weeks now and I’m not sure when I’ll be able to actually go, but hopefully soon 🙂
Dee
It really is unexpected.. I didn’t see any of this until my second visit there. I hope your trip happens soon!
kagould17
Perhaps one day………….but, the heat would likely be too much for this Canadia.
Dee
It is really extreme.. Though I much prefer the Gulf’s kind of dry heat to a combination of heat/humidity.
lemiroirdetati
This came in handy as I’m planning to visit Dubai in September.
Dee
I’m glad it’s helped!
WanderAndWonderWithMe
Nice to see another side of Dubai. I had been there twice but never knew this side of Dubai. I look forward to revisiting Dubai soon.
Dee
I hope you enjoy your trip! And wonderful post on Dubai’s food spots.
Lydia
Dubai is truly mesmerizing and astonishing, Dee. You obviously had a wonderful time there. I went there last year and I had an unforgettable time. Did you get the chance to explore the Hajar Mountains? The rock climbing there is unforgettable!
Dee
I was only in Dubai for a couple of days, so I didn’t get to explore as much as I’d like.. And I just read your post on Dubai and the Hajar Mountains – they sound incredible! I’ll have to keep that hike in mind for next time, as long as it isn’t too hot.
RobRob @TravelLatte(.net)
Smart move, Dubai! We are among the many that are not attracted by shopping malls so much as culture. While we’ve always known it’s there, it’s smart of the country to bring it up front. I’m sure we’ll see more of it!
Dee
Yes, hats off to that marketing team! They’re also promoting a lot of arts events and festivals, which is a great way to get people to return for repeat visits.
Lori
Dee, I love your post about Dubai. While I only know about it from what I have seen on TV or read online, you vividly describe a whole other side. You provide great details and anecdotes that are both fun and informative. Maybe one day I’ll visit. Coming from the western United States would prove too difficult.
Dee
Thanks so much, Lori! I’ve been to Dubai twice now, and was so excited to hear about this part of the city.. It would indeed be a very long trip from Oregon, and a completely different climate too.
thewonderer86
Dubai has never been high on my list of places to visit. (I am no shopper!) and there are so many other places to go – but interesting that it’s trying to move in another direction. Great post!
Dee
Thank you! It’s definitely a smart move to diversify their offerings.
summeriscomingmodel
nice article. love to visit dubai
Dee
Thank you, I do as well!
David
This is a totally different side of Dubai. Noted and put on my list. Thanks.
Dee
I’m glad you liked it!
Kelly MacKay
I’ll get there,
Dee
I hope so! It’s an amazing city.
Kelly MacKay
Yes, sounds like it
1944april
An interesting post, I only wish I knew of some of the places you mentioned before my last visit to DXB.
My first visit to Dubai was in 1963 or 64 – very different :- o)
Dee
Thank you! I hope you’ll get to see this side of Dubai on your next visit.. and it is incredible how quickly the city has changed.
Tara Runs the World
Thanks for the post! I am trying to decide if I should go somewhere in Morocco or visit Dubai this December. Both are appealing in different ways. I recently heard from someone that went to Dubai that they have more than shopping to offer. Some of those overnight camping trips in the desert look cool. Have you done that?
Dee
Thanks for reading, Tara! I’ve only done camping trips in the desert in Egypt, but never tried in Dubai.. It’s an amazing experience though for stargazing and racing some dunbuggies.
Tara Runs the World
That is cool! I might give it try in December.
Green Global Trek
We have never been to Dubai and it is good to know that there is a whole hipster area of blossoming art galleries and art culture. When and if we do get there, we will be sure to check it out. Thanks for the list of places at the end of your post!
Peta
Dee
I’m glad you liked it, Peta! It’s such a different and unique side to the city and I hope you’ll get to visit there someday.
Zara
Thanks for the information. A week trip must be a good choice for a traveller to Dubai. All popular places are nearby and this is what I like the most. You can enjoy your full time without wasting much on travel.
Dee
So true, Zara! Dubai is great for week trips and it’s so easy to get around.
sportsdiva64
That’s like the way I feel about Las Vegas as compared to New York City and Boston .
Dee
Las Vegas and Dubai do have a lot in common! 🙂
Lisa Bartson
Ostentatiously vulgar cities.